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Collected lists

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Jegigrat

Date:
12.08.2015
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
9:30h

Final proper climb for this holiday. I’d had a few quiet days in Zermatt while there was thundery wet weather going and we had a quick chat after the weekend to plan where we would head next. Initially we’d thought to finish off with a relatively big objective – the east ridge on the Weisshorn – but after hearing that new snow had been dumped down to at least 3300m as a result of the bad weather it didn’t sound like there would be ideal conditions for doing that route. The visibility in Zermatt was still not good enough to allow for any mountains to be visible so it was difficult to evaluate the conditions up high. So instead our final objective ended up being the Jegigrat, a ridge connecting the Jegihorn and Fletschhorn a little north of the Weissmies hut. The highest top on the >>>

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Portjengrat traverse

Date:
22.08.2014
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
10:30h

Final day of the climbing week. Objective: Portjengrat. This is a ca. 1km long ridge route at alpine AD/AD+ and according to the guidebook, required in the region of 9 hours to complete from the Almageller hut. Originally Terry had proposed that we have breakfast at 3.30am again to leave by 4am, but since the hut wardens weren’t serving breakfast earlier than 5am, it meant that we would aim to leave by 5.30am. Luxury alpine start?(!). I slept incredibly well, despite sharing a small dormitory with approx. 8 or 9 other guys. This has to be the first time EVER I have stayed in an alpine hut with so many guys who DON’T snore! Unbelievable. In a good way :) The atmosphere round our table at breakfast was somewhat quiet, in contrast to some of the other groups who seemed un-normally chatty for >>>

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Dri Hörnli

Date:
21.08.2014
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
6:00h

After some heavy rain showers during the previous evening, we all woke up to a surprisingly sunny morning in Saas Grund. Turns out the weather was proving to be better than what we’d expected from the forecast. Anyway, we had a decent, laid-back breakfast and got ready to leave at around 10am. The plan for today was to walk up to the Almageller hut, leave behind stuff we didn’t need and then do an afternoon climb on the Dri Horlini (or Dri Hörnli), which is graded at around 4/4+. It was great to be wearing lighter and more flexible boots today too! I had only tested out a pair of Scarpa Rebel Lite goretex boots on one or two hikes before leaving Tromsø, so I hoped they would be equally as comfortable now. The walk up to the hut starts from Saas Almagell. We saved ourselves one or two hundred >>>

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Ettermiddagsklatring på Ersfjorden

Date:
20.07.2014
Characteristic:
Sport climbing

Jeg våknet til en varm og vakker dag men skjønte at jeg faktisk ikke hadde lyst på fjelltur. Rart. Kunne ikke tenke meg hvorfor dette hadde skjedd, men det var uansett en god unnskyldning for å ha en sosial dag med turvenner igjen og hive meg med på en klatreøkt på Ersfjorden. Elise, Harald, Anne, Renate, Tim og Johanna hadde avtalt om å treffes rundt midt på dagen, så jeg sendte en sms til Elise og sa at jeg ville gjerne henge med og prøve litt klatring, selv om jeg ikke hadde klatret på nesten 3 år (ikke på sommerstid). Tenkte det er alltid verdt et forsøk! Men samtidig hadde jeg ikke klatresko, så jeg var ikke helt på om det ville gå an med å klatre i fjellsko... Vi gikk inn til klatrefeltet via en delvis bra sti. Den er ganske fin mesteparten av tida hvis du følger vardene! >>>

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Spidean a'Choire Leith (George)

Date:
12.02.2013
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
8:00h
Distance:
8.0km

Third day of our climbing course up in the northwest highlands, and also supposedly the final day of settled, beautiful weather before rain was going to set in. So to make the most of this, and the excellent snow and ice conditions we'd experienced so far, it was decided that we would head towards Torridon and attempt one of the 'classic' routes called George, which is located in Coire Dubh Mor on the northern side of Liathach. Since the route was 4-5 pitches long and the drive from Strathcarron would take around 45 minutes it also meant having to drag ourselves out of bed for another early start. But it would probably be worth the effort as the previous two days' trips had proved! So at 7am we were out of the cottage and bundled once again into Ken's van. It felt pretty mild outside, still >>>

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Resurrection (III,V)

Date:
29.01.2012
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
10:00h

We woke up to a clear sky in Strathcarron and with an early start we left the cottage at 7am and drove north to the Fannaichs, a nice little bundle of munros north of Torridon/south of Ullapool. It wasn't all that cold outside, but after disembarking from the van it felt very chilly with the wind blowing once again. We began the walk-in from somewhere on the A835 and headed straight out in a more or less southwesterly direction towards the coire, passing Loch a' Mhadaidh on the way. It was roughly 7 or 8 km just to reach the foot of the climb, and with all our climbing gear weighing down the rucksacks, it made for quite a lengthy day out ahead of us (and hence the early start)! Sadly too, by the time we reached it, we'd been abandoned by the sun and it was windy enough to have both Debbie and >>>

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Right End Buttress (III)

Date:
28.01.2012
Characteristic:
Mixed climbing

We (Debbie Spencer and myself) climbed a mixed route called Right End Buttress on Fuar Tholl with Martin Moran during a weekend of instructed climbing.It wasn't a particularly dry day and for the most of it we were in low cloud and damp air; the walk up from the valley and into the coire itself was a bit wet underfoot, and very mild. But it wasn't properly raining, which was a positive thing! We climbed as two teams of 3, with Ewen leading the guys; it was a beautiful route with some elegant moves and I thoroughly enjoyed the problems. Overall I think it added up to 4 pitches (?) in length, the hardest of which were contained within pitches 1 and 2. There are opportunities for harder variations of the route (which we of course found ourselves climbing since it was Martin leading!) The summit >>>

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Glovers Chimney (III)

Date:
12.12.2010
Characteristic:
Ice climbing

Some old pictures from a really good route. Fantastic ice at the first pitch, followed by good quality neve in the main gully. Didn't bother belaying too much there and moved together on a long rope for a lot of the time since the conditions were so good. Last pitch up into Tower Gap was fun, but finished in the dark, the rock on both sides of the gully was completely glazed in ice but surprisingly OK for finding ice axe placements. Continued up Tower Ridge to reach the summit plateau before descending. This trip will be remembered for all the wrong reasons.

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