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Jegigrat

Date:
12.08.2015
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
9:30h

Final proper climb for this holiday. I’d had a few quiet days in Zermatt while there was thundery wet weather going and we had a quick chat after the weekend to plan where we would head next. Initially we’d thought to finish off with a relatively big objective – the east ridge on the Weisshorn – but after hearing that new snow had been dumped down to at least 3300m as a result of the bad weather it didn’t sound like there would be ideal conditions for doing that route. The visibility in Zermatt was still not good enough to allow for any mountains to be visible so it was difficult to evaluate the conditions up high. So instead our final objective ended up being the Jegigrat, a ridge connecting the Jegihorn and Fletschhorn a little north of the Weissmies hut. The highest top on the >>>

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Breithorn

Date:
08.08.2015
Characteristic:
Hike
Duration:
1:30h

Etter en latterlig varm fredag var jeg klar for en liten tur igjen. Varmen gjør meg raskt sliten og denne lørdagen skulle bli like varm som fredagen så det var kjekt å starte litt tidlig. Rocio skulle tilbringe helgen i Chamonix da de neste par dagene hadde fått en dårlig værmelding så planen var å vente til etter helgen og ta en prat om hvor vi skulle dra på siste turen da. Fikk høre med Boris og Ed siden de skulle overnatte på samme hotellet i Zermatt som meg og fant ut at de hadde planlagt å gå en liten morgentur til Breithorn. Spurte om jeg kunne bli med og heldigvis svarte de med ja, så plutselig så lørdagen min ikke så kjedelig ut. Vi tok frokost kl.7 og gikk opp til heisen like etter kl.7.30 for å kunne rekke den første som skulle opp til Klein Matterhorn kl.8. Føltes >>>

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Matterhorn

Date:
06.08.2015
Characteristic:
Alpine trip
Duration:
8:30h

Having come down from the Eiger we now needed a new objective since the updated weather forecast seemed to be pretty promising for the next couple of days. Rocio had mentioned she had thought about doing a traverse of the Matterhorn, starting in Italy and finishing on the Swiss side but as a result of the hot temperatures this summer the Italian side of the mountain was recently closed because of rockfall risk. Fortunately the Hörnli ridge on the Swiss side was not. I have to admit that despite knowing about this famous Toblerone mountain since before I was even a teenager it has never been on my to-do list. I’ve heard a lot about how popular the ascent of the mountain is from the Hörnli ridge so anyone wanting to climb it must be able to move more or less continuously from start to finish >>>

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Eiger traverse

Date:
03.08.2015
Characteristic:
Alpine trip
Duration:
9:00h

After spending a night at the Cosmiques hut, Rocio and I discussed a few of our options in Chamonix. Rocio was keen to get some AD/D graded ridge climbs done and first on the list of possibilities was the Eiger since the heat wave in Europe this summer had now made the Mittellegi ridge in reasonable condition. I had of course done minimal research on the Eiger beforehand but I came here really to just do some decent climbing so if Rocio thought it was worth doing then I was more than happy to go along with it! It looked like Monday was going to be a decent weather day for summiting any peak so ideally we needed to be doing the walk in to a hut the next day. Unfortunately it seemed there were no beds available at the Mittellegi hut on Sunday night. So we needed a new plan. The south ridge on >>>

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Portjengrat traverse

Date:
22.08.2014
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
10:30h

Final day of the climbing week. Objective: Portjengrat. This is a ca. 1km long ridge route at alpine AD/AD+ and according to the guidebook, required in the region of 9 hours to complete from the Almageller hut. Originally Terry had proposed that we have breakfast at 3.30am again to leave by 4am, but since the hut wardens weren’t serving breakfast earlier than 5am, it meant that we would aim to leave by 5.30am. Luxury alpine start?(!). I slept incredibly well, despite sharing a small dormitory with approx. 8 or 9 other guys. This has to be the first time EVER I have stayed in an alpine hut with so many guys who DON’T snore! Unbelievable. In a good way :) The atmosphere round our table at breakfast was somewhat quiet, in contrast to some of the other groups who seemed un-normally chatty for >>>

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Dri Hörnli

Date:
21.08.2014
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
6:00h

After some heavy rain showers during the previous evening, we all woke up to a surprisingly sunny morning in Saas Grund. Turns out the weather was proving to be better than what we’d expected from the forecast. Anyway, we had a decent, laid-back breakfast and got ready to leave at around 10am. The plan for today was to walk up to the Almageller hut, leave behind stuff we didn’t need and then do an afternoon climb on the Dri Horlini (or Dri Hörnli), which is graded at around 4/4+. It was great to be wearing lighter and more flexible boots today too! I had only tested out a pair of Scarpa Rebel Lite goretex boots on one or two hikes before leaving Tromsø, so I hoped they would be equally as comfortable now. The walk up to the hut starts from Saas Almagell. We saved ourselves one or two hundred >>>

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Allalinhorn ENE ridge

Date:
20.08.2014
Characteristic:
Alpine trip
Duration:
5:00h

After our ascent of the Gran Paradiso North Face we descended back down to the valley from the Chabod hut in fog and rain showers and took a coffee break at the cafe at Pont. While here we had a browse through the guide books, got an updated weather forecast and thought over our options for the rest of the week. There seemed to be a bit of unstable weather until thursday, but friday looked to be a good day. After much discussion and suggestions, we made a plan to drive to Saas Grund and have a base there for the next two nights, and one night at the Almageller hut, which was more or less within the same area. So we made the long(ish) drive back from Italy over the St. Bernards Pass into Switzerland again and eastwards along the Rhone valley towards the Saas valley. To break up the journey a bit we stopped at a Coop >>>

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La Berneuse

Date:
16.08.2014
Characteristic:
Walk
Duration:
2:30h

Tok en spasertur til La Berneuse i morges. Bra oppvarming til den kommende uken. Det er fullt mulig å ta heisen dersom det ønskes, men det går mange diverse stier (av høykvalitet) opp dit fra Leysin sentrum. Dette må sies: det er godt å nyte slike stier etter å ha blitt vant til å lete etter 'en slags sti' i Nord Norge de siste tre årene! Fin utsikt over hele dalen, mot øst og sør. Fikk ikke se mange topper i Valaisalpene på grunn av tåke/bygeskyer, men det var fin stemning likevel. På turen ned tok jeg en litt lengre variant tilbake til byen. Det finnes skilt over alt, så det er bare å følge dem som frister!

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Tete de Balme

Date:
12.01.2014
Characteristic:
Randonnée/Telemark
Duration:
3:00h

Hadde en fri dag i Chamonix før skikjøringkurs skulle foregå, så jeg brukte anledning til å dra på en liten tur i området og få litt bevegelse i beina. Hadde ingen peiling om hvor som skulle passe bra til skiturer her, så fikk litt råd fra chalet-eieren. Hun foreslo om å gå opp fra Le Tour til Tete de Balme siden det var lov til å gå opp fjellet på ski ved siden av skibakkene. Så det jeg gjorde. Tok bussen fra Chamonix til Le Tour, hvor jeg traff utallige mange skikjørere som var på ferie. Litt annerledes for noen som kommer fra Nord-Norge og er vant til å se nesten ingen andre på det samme fjellet! Uansett, tok skiene på og satte kurs mot den første heisen. Selv om jeg var heldig med strålende sol i dag, var skiføret svært dårlig. Typisk vårsnø som ikke hadde blitt >>>

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Weissmies

Date:
14.07.2009
Characteristic:
Alpine trip

Tuesday, 14th July 2009 Having a day trip to the Weissmies meant that we could carry relatively light rucksacks and there wasn’t too many things to have to think about packing. So at 6am, we bundled back into Anthony’s Audi and drove down to the Tamoil garage at Sion to meet Hannah, our other guide and also split up into 2 cars which would be a lot more comfortable for the journey up to Saas Grund. It was a dry, slightly overcast morning, which was getting gradually sunnier as we progressed further east and up the valley again. Saas Grund wasn’t particularly high up, and we were going to take the Hohe Saas gondolas up to the station at about 3100m, which would place us quite nicely for the ascent to the top of the Weissmies at 4027m. We left the Hohe Saas station about 20 minutes after >>>

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