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Weisshorn

Dato:
25.07.2019
Turtype:
Alpin klatring
Turlengde:
9:54t
Distanse:
8,2km

The Weisshorn has been on my list of peaks I’ve wanted to climb for a while, mainly because it’s big, requires a bit of effort to reach and beautiful. It stands out from its neighbouring peaks and is hard to miss from any angle. And to quote the late Martin Moran in his 4000m peaks guidebook, “The lofty pyramid of the Weisshorn is considered to be the finest of all the Alpine peaks by many connoisseurs who disdain the public glories of the Matterhorn and who ignore the greater quality and variety of climbs on Mont Blanc”. I guess this is not too bad a description of my attitude… Anyway, with a reputation such as this it would be hard to not want to climb it at some point :) Due to the weather forecast for Friday having been changed to somewhat less stable weather, it seemed like the >>>

Lenzspitze - Nadelhorn traverse

Dato:
23.07.2019
Turtype:
Alpin klatring
Turlengde:
8:00t
Distanse:
5,8km

With a pretty good looking weather forecast for the week after we’d come down from the Dent d’Herens there didn’t seem to be any reason to stop ticking off some good quality 4000m peak ridge traverses. So after having taking a rest day in Evolene the next plan on my «wishlist» was to climb the east-northeast ridge of the Lenzspitze and continue the traverse to the Nadelhorn, returning down its easy northeast ridge. Tim had done the northeast face of the Lenzspitze before and the traverse to the Nadelhorn but not the east-northeast ridge so he was psyched for giving it a go (generally he’s psyched for most things regardless of whether he’s done it before or not though)! We left Evolene again relatively early for the drive over to Saas Fee and parked up just outside the town. The >>>

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Dent d'Hérens

Dato:
20.07.2019
Turtype:
Alpin klatring
Turlengde:
8:35t
Distanse:
21,0km

After returning to Courmayeur from the Torino hut the plan was to stay somewhere in Italy for the night so we could head straight to the Dent d’Herens the following day. We’d initially planned to book some beds at the Prarayer refuge which is about 1 hour along the walk in to the Aosta refuge, but we instead opted to go all the way back to Evolene since most people were away at huts so the chalet would be empty and quiet!! It turned out to be a good choice, at least for me since I woke up the next day feeling very well rested and ready for the 3-hour drive back into Italy and up to the Lago di Place Moulin where the long walk in began. It was another warm and sunny day, in contrast to the clouds that meteoblue had forecasted, so I was somewhat dreading having to do a long walk up to the >>>

Dôme & Aiguille de Rochefort

Dato:
18.07.2019
Turtype:
Alpin klatring
Turlengde:
10:05t
Distanse:
8,6km

After coming back to Evolene from Saas Almagell there was a bit of a swap with guides so for the remainder of the 10 days I was going to be climbing again with Tim Neill whom I’d had a great week with in 2018. First on the plan was to make a new attempt to do the Rochefort traverse over Aiguilles de Rochefort and Dome de Rochefort – and fortunately there were beds available at the Torino hut for the following night when we wanted to get up there. The drive from Evolene to Courmayeaur took a couple of hours via the Grand St. Bernard pass and driving around through Aosta and finally northward to Courmayeur where we did a quick shopping trip at a local supermarket. Having gotten used to grocery shopping at Norwegian and Swiss prices, Italy seemed super cheap! We then hopped onto the Skyway >>>

Weissmies

Dato:
16.07.2019
Turtype:
Alpin klatring
Turlengde:
6:00t

Back in the Alps again for my 10th summer visit, and like the previous 3 years with a base again in Evolene. I felt semi-acclimatised after having spent a few days hiking up to 3200m in the Saas valley the week before and since I’d arranged to have 1:1 guiding this year I was keen to tick off a few more of the 4000m peaks. For the first trip I was climbing with guide Graham Frost who I’d done the Dent Blanche with back in 2016 and initially I’d suggested heading over to the Torino hut to start with the Rochefort Arete since both the Aiguille de Rochefort and Dome de Rochefort were relatively low 4000ers and easy to access. However, since the Torino hut was fully booked and it had dumped it down with new snow on the first night we ended up joining guides Tim and Jon who were working for >>>

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Jegihorn

Dato:
10.07.2019
Turtype:
Fottur
Turlengde:
2:31t
Distanse:
5,6km

Første dag på tur i Saas-dalen og det var en nydelig varm dag. Fikk utnyttet min "Citizens Pass" som gjør at man får bruke de fleste heiser gratis når man bor på en av de overnattingsstedene i Saas Grund/Saas Fee. Tok heisen opp til Kreuzboden og fulgte blå/hvit merking opp mot Jegihorn. På ca. 2700moh deler stien seg slik at den høyre stien går opp mot via ferrataen og den venstre fører man opp mot klatreveggen og stien som går rundt. Gikk i rolig tempo og tok flere små pauser underveis for å ta bilder, men det var litt under 1,5t opp alikevel. Flott utsikt mot mange av de 4000m toppene på andre siden av dalen bl.a. Strahlhorn, Allalinhorn, Alphubel, Taschhorn, Dom, Lenzspitze, Nadelhorn….. og så Lagginhorn og Weissmies som var i nærheten. Fin og kort morgentur >>>

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Pollux

Dato:
14.05.2019
Turtype:
Alpintur

After having a chilled out weekend in Chamonix after our trip up the Dufourspitze I’d decided to stay for an extra few days in the Alps to make the most of the sunny weather that had been forecasted for the coming week, though I’d missed the fact that there were strong winds up high of around 70-80kph as well. Anyway since Rob and Simon were off to make an attempt on Mont Blanc, I was going to meet up with guide Thor Husted who was originally from Taos in New Mexico but had been living and working in Chamonix for a good part of the past 2 decades. We had a brief chat about possible objectives - I was at first keen to do an ascent of the Dom though after having taken into consideration the forecasted winds for tuesday morning, this didn’t seem particularly likely. The choice was mainly >>>

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Dufourspitze

Dato:
10.05.2019
Turtype:
Randonnée/Telemark
Turlengde:
9:00t
Distanse:
24,0km

I first climbed the Dufourspitze in 2003 as a novice mountaineer with the late female British guide Brede Arkless as the final peak on a 4-day long trip around the Italian side of the Monte Rosa massif. Due to my camera betteries dying at the Gnifetti hut I never did get any photos to remember the spectacular ridge traverse over the Zumsteinspitze and Dufourspitze from the Margherita hut, but had not forgotten that it was a peak to return to and do again! Sixteen years later, and after having a one day break following our ascent of the Gran Paradiso we had a few options for finishing off the week given that the weather in the Zermatt valley was forecasted to be awesome on the Friday. With the exception of the Dom and Bishorn there aren’t actually that many peaks in the Zermatt valley that >>>

Gran Paradiso

Dato:
07.05.2019
Turtype:
Randonnée/Telemark
Turlengde:
8:24t
Distanse:
25,4km

Another year and another trip to the Alps :) This year I was joining Simon (who I didn’t know before arriving in Chamonix) and our guide Rob Jarvis who I’ve skied with several times before, for a 4-day trip into the Bernese Oberland with the hope of ticking off some of the major 4000m peaks in the area. Well, that was the original plan anyway. Unfortunately the first week of May seemed to be offering nothing but unsettled weather north of the Rhone valley with a lot of new snow being dumped in the mountains - and most up in the Bernese Oberland. We’d already heard that there had been some avalanche fatalities in the Bernese Oberland in the week before we’d arrived, so it was a reminder that conditions were still full on winter up high. With the unsettled forecast in mind but potential >>>

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Petit Flambeau

Dato:
06.05.2019
Turtype:
Randonnée/Telemark

Half day acclimatisation trip with Rob and Simon from the Skyway lift on the italian side of Mont Blanc. Skied Down the glacier west of the Petit Flambeau but not all the way down to the Glacier du Geant; skinned back up to a saddle on the north ridge of the peak and then walked up the rest of it. Great views and nice to have some light exercise before driving south to the Gran Paradiso.

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