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Collected lists

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Weissmies

Date:
16.07.2019
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
6:00h

Back in the Alps again for my 10th summer visit, and like the previous 3 years with a base again in Evolene. I felt semi-acclimatised after having spent a few days hiking up to 3200m in the Saas valley the week before and since I’d arranged to have 1:1 guiding this year I was keen to tick off a few more of the 4000m peaks. For the first trip I was climbing with guide Graham Frost who I’d done the Dent Blanche with back in 2016 and initially I’d suggested heading over to the Torino hut to start with the Rochefort Arete since both the Aiguille de Rochefort and Dome de Rochefort were relatively low 4000ers and easy to access. However, since the Torino hut was fully booked and it had dumped it down with new snow on the first night we ended up joining guides Tim and Jon who were working for >>>

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Jegihorn

Date:
10.07.2019
Characteristic:
Hike
Duration:
2:31h
Distance:
5.6km

Første dag på tur i Saas-dalen og det var en nydelig varm dag. Fikk utnyttet min "Citizens Pass" som gjør at man får bruke de fleste heiser gratis når man bor på en av de overnattingsstedene i Saas Grund/Saas Fee. Tok heisen opp til Kreuzboden og fulgte blå/hvit merking opp mot Jegihorn. På ca. 2700moh deler stien seg slik at den høyre stien går opp mot via ferrataen og den venstre fører man opp mot klatreveggen og stien som går rundt. Gikk i rolig tempo og tok flere små pauser underveis for å ta bilder, men det var litt under 1,5t opp alikevel. Flott utsikt mot mange av de 4000m toppene på andre siden av dalen bl.a. Strahlhorn, Allalinhorn, Alphubel, Taschhorn, Dom, Lenzspitze, Nadelhorn….. og så Lagginhorn og Weissmies som var i nærheten. Fin og kort morgentur >>>

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Pollux

Date:
14.05.2019
Characteristic:
Alpine trip

After having a chilled out weekend in Chamonix after our trip up the Dufourspitze I’d decided to stay for an extra few days in the Alps to make the most of the sunny weather that had been forecasted for the coming week, though I’d missed the fact that there were strong winds up high of around 70-80kph as well. Anyway since Rob and Simon were off to make an attempt on Mont Blanc, I was going to meet up with guide Thor Husted who was originally from Taos in New Mexico but had been living and working in Chamonix for a good part of the past 2 decades. We had a brief chat about possible objectives - I was at first keen to do an ascent of the Dom though after having taken into consideration the forecasted winds for tuesday morning, this didn’t seem particularly likely. The choice was mainly >>>

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Dufourspitze

Date:
10.05.2019
Characteristic:
Randonnée/Telemark
Duration:
9:00h
Distance:
24.0km

I first climbed the Dufourspitze in 2003 as a novice mountaineer with the late female British guide Brede Arkless as the final peak on a 4-day long trip around the Italian side of the Monte Rosa massif. Due to my camera betteries dying at the Gnifetti hut I never did get any photos to remember the spectacular ridge traverse over the Zumsteinspitze and Dufourspitze from the Margherita hut, but had not forgotten that it was a peak to return to and do again! Sixteen years later, and after having a one day break following our ascent of the Gran Paradiso we had a few options for finishing off the week given that the weather in the Zermatt valley was forecasted to be awesome on the Friday. With the exception of the Dom and Bishorn there aren’t actually that many peaks in the Zermatt valley that >>>

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Jegihorn

Date:
10.08.2018
Characteristic:
Sport climbing
Duration:
4:00h

For the final day of the week climbing with Tim we left Evolene at 7.30am and headed over to Saas Grund to do a quick climb up the Jegihorn. Well, actually the intention was never to make it a quick climb, but that's how it turned out anyway. After driving through thick valley fog for most of the way we were still optimistic that the weather would be much better up high (assuming the webcam at Hohsaas we had checked was not from a previous sunny day!) and after getting off at Kreuzboden (ca. 2400m) we were met by somewhat better visibility and the odd glimpse of blue sky. In any case it was a very pleasant temperature to walk to the base of the climbing routes in. I think we used around an hour to do the approach walk (about 500m elevation gain) in a relaxed pace. Once we arrived at the foot >>>

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Grand Combin

Date:
09.08.2018
Characteristic:
Alpine climbing
Duration:
7:45h

The Grand Combin ended up being the major summit of the week climbing with Tim and we were also joined by Janine and aspirant mountain guide Jack. It was nice to have another female for company, although when the other female has previously been on the British skimo racing team it made me a bit nervous about the pace we’d be hiking up to the Valsorey hut in ;) We left Evolene at around 9am on the wednesday and stopped at Martigny to pick up Jack before continuing the journey up to Bourg St. Bernard where the trail to the hut starts. With about 1200m of height gain it’s regarded as one of the "longer" hut walks and fortunately that means it also ends up being quieter. There was only a group of three female hikers and another couple other than us staying at the hut that evening. >>>

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Aiguille d'Orny

Date:
13.08.2017
Characteristic:
Climbing
Duration:
6:00h

After a partly wet Friday which we used to do yet another via ferrata at Saillon (named Via Farinetta, TD+), Saturday finally brought good weather and it appeared that the weather would remain good until at least Tuesday or Wednesday. However the constant downpours of rain at valley-level had also produced massive dumps of new snow from around 3000m, so even though the good weather was back, the high mountain ridges weren’t necessarily in condition. Fortunately we didn’t have any solid objectives for these 2 weeks so we were essentially free to make plans according to weather and conditions. Aiguille d’Orny became the new objective for Sunday so we did a few single pitch 5a/5b climbs at Dorenaz early on Saturday morning before driving up to Champex-Lac to get the Breya chairlift at 2188m >>>

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Lagginhorn South Ridge

Date:
07.08.2017
Characteristic:
Alpine trip
Duration:
7:30h

First route of a two-week trip with Linda who I’d met up with a few days earlier and our Finnish guide Sami who was working for Frost Guiding based in Evolene. The weather forecast wasn’t all that promising for the majority of the week but Monday was supposed to be fairly good with sunny weather. After some discussions about what we’d already done and what sort of routes we wanted to do, we decided to start with the south ridge of the Lagginhorn, a long AD ridge route which was now in good, dry condition after several days of warm and sunny weather. It seemed like a good objective since Linda had done a lot of fairly hard rock climbing in the US but never done any short-roping before on easier grade routes in the Alps. We planned to drive over to Saas Grund on Sunday morning and take >>>

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Pointe du Bandon

Date:
03.08.2017
Characteristic:
Hillwalk

Akklimatiseringstur i lag med Linda. Vi tok første buss fra Evolene til Les Hauderes da en tidlig start fristet mtp at det var meldt varmt vær i dag. Byttet buss i Les Hauderes for å komme oss videre til La Sage. Fulgte stien i retning Col du Tsaté før jeg etter hvert gikk opp på den sørlige ryggen på Pointe du Bandon og Linda fortsatte mot Moiryhytta. God sti opp til ryggen, men derfra ble det kun gress og løs stein. Mye løs stein faktisk. Fortoppen var også noe løs og jeg var i tvil på om jeg hadde lyst til å hoppe over et hakk under den lille toppen for å kunne fortsette mot det høyeste punkt på Pointe du Bandon som var kun 10m høyere. Så jeg avsluttet turen på fortoppen og ble trøstet med en OK utsikt mot Glacier de Moiry og de mange flotte toppene rundt breen. Gikk >>>

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Petite Dent de Veisivi traverse

Date:
23.08.2016
Characteristic:
Alpine trip
Duration:
6:45h

Siste dag på ferie og nok en solskinnsdag uten en eneste sky. Hadde ønsket å sove lenge etter gårsdagens tidlig start, men dette klarte jeg ikke så jeg var ganske trøtt igjen da jeg våknet. Vi hadde snakket med Graham om ulike planer for dagen, en av dem var klatring på Miroir d'Argentine, klatring på Sanetsch eller en ryggtravers over Petite Dent de Veisivi. Richard hadde takket nei til en siste klatredag så det var egentlig opp til meg for å ta en beslutning. Kunne vært fristende å ha en skikkelig klatredag med mindre innmarsj enn på fjelltur, men til slutt var det ryggtraversen som vant. Med en innmarsj på ca.1300hm kun til starten av traversen var det noe tungt etter å ha vært på Dent Blanche dagen før, men jeg regnet med at vi ikke skulle gå så veldg fort og det burde >>>

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